What does this mean for me? Well, I won't go out without a scarf for a start. I don't like being cold and last week's slight chill in the air has got me thinking about autumn/winter woolies. (Strangely enough it's warm today.)
I've dug out the crochet hooks and knitting needles that have lain dormant for the summer and am working on some super-dooper, super-cosy woolens. No pics of those here though because I allowed myself to be distracted (again?).To work with the chunky wool I had in mind I needed some new crochet hooks. So, having treated myself to a couple of beautiful new hooks I tried to put them in my knitting needle roll only to find I had no space. Oh dear, I'll have to make one just for the hooks!
. . . here's a little tutorial on the outcome.
I have a lovely knitting needle roll which was made by a very talented neighbour of mine and I used the layout of this as the basis for my crochet hook roll.
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| Filled to overflowing! |
I had a rummage about in my fabric stash and found some Amy Butler cotton and a couple of complementary colours of curtain lining. Perfect.
I measured the longest of my hooks and two-ended needles and decided that 10" would be long enough. I used the full width of the Amy Butler fabric and found that a 10" length would be all that was needed to make the roll.
(Before I write this I should apologise for the measuring inconsistencies. Although I'm British and grew up with the metric system I still think of biggish measurements in feet and inches. However, having worked as a book designer for many years I think of small measurements in millimetres. Go figure.)
What you need:
The main part of the roll (the bit the pockets will be attached to) is 10" x 13.5". Cut two of those.
The pockets are 5" x 13.5" and 6" x 13.5".
The flap (to cover the hooks for rolling) is 10" x 12". Cut two pieces in whichever fabric you choose. This includes the seam allowance.
Some bias binding (for the top edge of the pockets and optional for the outside edge).
Button.
I used a little of the off-cut Amy Butler fabric to makes the ties too but you could use some ribbon instead. (I cut two strips 1" wide and folded and pressed them as if making binding, folded it in half and ran a line of edge stitching.)
Method:
Step 1
Apply the bias binding to the top edge of the pockets. You could use a binding foot for this but I prefer to do it 'freehand' as I feel that I have better control.
Step 2
Lay the pockets on top of one of the biggest pieces of fabric. Line them up to the bottom and side edges of the main part and pin/baste in place. All right side up. (I plan to bind my roll so I ran a machine stitch close to the edge to hold the pockets in place.)
Step 3
Mark out the positions of the dividers for the pockets. I like the pockets to hold the needles snugly so I used 1" and a couple of 2.5" to allow for more bulky items. My ruler is slightly more than an inch wide so I used that as a guide.
Step 4
Stitch along the lines drawn for the dividers. I ran a line of stitches from the bottom edge to the top of the pockets, turned the fabric and stitched back to the edge. I like it reinforced this way.
Step 5
Make the flap. Using the two pieces of 12" x !0" fabric, place them right sides together and stitch 5mm from the edge, leaving one of the long sides open. Clip the corners and turn it right side out. Push out the corners and press. I like the sharpness of edge stitching so I stitched around the three sewn edges and pressed again. Edge stitching isn't necessary but I like it anyway.
Step 6
Pile all the pieces together ready for construction.
Main piece – right side down
Next, main piece with pockets attached – right side up
Then the flap – whichever way up you like – line up to the top edge and centre on width
And finally the ties
Pin it all in place. Tack/baste if you like.
Step 7
Sew it all together.
Sew around the outside edge of the whole thing. You could zigzag or overlock and that should hold it all in place perfectly well. The sewing machine on my desk at the moment is a good old-fashioned straight stitch machine so I decided to bind the edges using bias. Whichever way, they're all good.
* Make sure you don't accidentally catch the bottom of the flap. ( I pinned it out of the way, just to be sure.) *
(I don't usually use mitre corners for binding, as I tend to design with curves, so this was a learning experience for me. I tried to take a short cut and do it all with the roll on the machine, with pinning and pushing and a bit of hoping for the best – with mixed results. I was definitely getting better with practise and since this was just for me I decided to just live with it – until I woke up this morning and decided to unpick and restitch the corners! And the bit where the binding is finished off and doesn't look as good as it needs to – even as a home project! Aargh!)
Step 8
Flip over the ties and reinforce with top stitching to hold them straight out.
Step9
Add a button and put a knot in the ties so that they can wrap round the rolled-up roll and fit over the button.
Step 10
Fill it with lovely useful things and roll it up.
Step 11
Enjoy using!
I enjoyed making the roll for my crochet hooks but it did make me realise that I have some hooks (my tiny lace making ones) missing!
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